Mountaineering

WRANGELL-ST. ELIAS NATIONAL PARK

World class mountain climbing without the crowds

Taking in the views while climbing high on Mt. Blackburn (16,390 ft), the 5th tallest peak in Alaska and the United States

The Best of Alaska Climbing

Denali tends to get all of the attention because it is the tallest mountain in Alaska and North America. But that also means that it is always crowded with climbers all competing with each other to get to the top.

Most of the best climbing in Alaska, however, is in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. With 16 of the 20 tallest peaks in Alaska and 9 of the 16 tallest in the United States, there is no shortage of alpine routes to satisfy any climber regardless of experience level. And it even has the second biggest mountain, Mt. St. Elias (18,008 ft; 5,489 m) that is one of the most beautiful and difficult mountains to climb in the world.

The best part of climbing here is that there are no crowds. There are no fixed ropes and no boot-pack trail showing you the way. Climbing in Wrangell-St. Elias will give you one of the most challenging yet rewarding adventures of a lifetime!

PRO TIP: Climbing here typically takes about 2 weeks on average due to the remoteness of the locations and the extreme weather patterns. So budget plenty of time for your trip.

NOTE: Due to the extreme remoteness and difficulty of the climbing environment I highly recommend hiring a guide unless you are a very experienced climber that is skilled in alpine expedition planning.

Climbing trips start with a thrilling flight in a bush plane on skis

Remote Climbing Locations

Just getting to the start of a climbing trip is an adventure in itself. The only way to get to these big mountains is to fly in a bush plane outfitted with skis and land on a snow-covered glacier.

There are very few options for air taxi due to the extreme difficulty of accessing these mountains. Paul Klaus of Ultima Thule Outfitters is a legendary Alaska bush pilot with over 30 years of experience flying and transporting climbers to any mountain destination in the park.

Climbing to the summit from high camp on Mt. Drum (12,010 ft)

Big Mountains

Many of the big mountains in Alaska are old volcanos with massive relief. Don’t be fooled by the summit elevation. The height of the mountains may at first not appear to be as impressive as others that you may have climbed. But many of these giants start at nearly sea level making for climbs that are 9,000 ft or more over heavily glaciated terrain.

Crossing a massive glacier to the base of the mountain

Long Approaches

Getting to the base of a climb typically involves dragging your gear in a sled over a long distance.

Fortified camp high on Mt. Drum (12,010 ft)

Extreme Weather

The most difficult and surprising thing about Alaska climbing is the notoriously bad weather that changes very quickly. So be prepared to hunker down and wait out storms for several days if necessary.

Navigating hazards on the approach to the climb

Roped Glacier Travel

Not only are Alaska mountains covered in ice but traveling to them often requires long approaches on crevasse-filled glaciers. Glacier navigation, rope travel techniques and crevasse rescue skills are essential components of any climb in Wrangell-St. Elias.

Steep, technical climbing on Mt. Blackburn (16,390 ft)

Exciting Technical Climbing

Although some mountains can be climbed with little more than roped glacier travel, many require technical skills to get through the steepest and most exposed sections.

High Camps

Setting up one or more camps high on the mountain is necessary to successfully climb Alaska mountains. The mountains are simply too big and the weather patterns are wildly unpredictable to scale them in a day or two.

Ice Fall

The terrain may require passing near or climbing through icefall. This is a particularly dangerous but necessary part of climbing in Alaska.

Avalanche Risk

Climbing through avalanche-prone terrain is generally unavoidable. So Alaska climbing demands a solid understanding of assessing and mitigating avalanche hazards. And all climbers must possess avalanche rescue skills.